London Fashion Week always brings a sense of anticipation, and Spring/Summer 2027 was no exception. I was excited to discover what designers had envisioned for the season and grateful for the opportunity to attend some wonderful shows.

From familiar names to labels I discovered for the first time, it was a pleasure to see each brand express its individuality through its designs. There were a few pieces I found myself returning to when I looked back on the week, so I wanted to share a few highlights: the standout runway pieces, the collections that caught my eye, and the brands I’ll be watching.

Maria Grachvogel

I had the pleasure of being invited to experience Maria Grachvogel’s Elemental collection up close, an intimate viewing that offered a deeper look into her approach to design, craftsmanship, and seasonless dressing. I’ve always appreciated a brand that truly understands a woman’s body and designs for its ever‑changing state, and Maria’s work embodies that philosophy with ease. Her vision of sustainable luxury comes through in pieces that are both forgiving and enhancing, impeccably made, and timeless enough to transcend trends for years to come. The fabric quality alone ensures longevity in any wardrobe. Maria is a seasoned designer, and you can feel her dedication in the way she speaks about her work, the thoughtful language she uses to celebrate the female form in all its expressions.

Credit: Photographer: Arthur Dunkin Hair and Make‑up: Elizabeth Hseih Models: Florence Kosky and Thais Martins

FLAIR FASHION

Flair Fashion showcased 8 up-and-coming designers this London Fashion Week, each with unique perspectives. Designers depicting creative independence and a love for contemporary fashion. The show brought together a diverse cast of models, steering beyond conventional runway casting to create something fresh and compelling. Flair Fashion highlighted designers from around the world, each sharing their unique perspective and embracing their creative liberties.

Gashani

Their SS 27 collection was themed ‘The Golden Hour’, which explores transformation through a fluid interplay of nature, light, and movement. Gashani translates this vision into clothing through sculpted corsetry, intricate beadwork, and flowing silhouettes that echo the forms and colours of nature.

Quarez

One unmistakable hallmark of Quarez’s craftsmanship is her ability to manipulate fabric and form with playful precision. This was evident throughout the collection she sent down the runway, where inspirations drawn from her own childhood surfaced in charming, unexpected ways. Her approach to fashion is compellingly unconventional, an exploration of femininity through an awkward, childlike lens that renders each piece fanciful, exaggerated, and delightfully off‑kilter.

Berth

Since its founding in 2014 by Afa Tsang, the brand has embraced a modern‑vintage aesthetic marked by bold textiles, lively prints, and fluid, layered forms. Their latest collection, Gathering of Dreams, draws inspiration from the free‑spirited hippie and bohemian culture of the 1970s, resulting in pieces that feel nostalgic and unapologetically expressive.

Velespace x The Kong Is Dead

Velespace and The Kong Is Dead merge technology with post‑streetwear, pushing the boundaries of what fashion can become. Their tech‑driven charm functions as smart, wearable accessories that complete an outfit, very innovative and creative. The Kong Is Dead draws inspiration from Lucio Fontana, treating the first layer of every garment not as a finished surface but as something to cut into and reimagine.

Une Enfant

Une Enfant, founded in 2025, is a womenswear label shaped by the visual culture of the early 2000s. Its latest collection revisits that era’s optimism through subtle futuristic details and a cool, urban mood, an exploration of how the past continues to inspire the present.

El Khemie

El Khemie’s Department of Nocturnal Affairs reflects on work culture using Singapore’s coffee and tea rituals as a narrative thread. Silk organza coloured with hand‑extracted teas contrasts with corporate navy tailoring, tracing the journey from long nights to the soft glow of morning. Something about this (pictured below) midnight‑blue gown captivated me: the sculptural, draped bodice, the voluminous skirt, and the delicate trailing embellishments. Organic fabric accents in muted earthy tones add depth, making the piece feel both dramatic and intimately crafted.

Psy Lau

Psy Lau, a Hong Kong–based streetwear label, presents The Art of Letting Go, a collection shaped by the Japanese philosophy of Danshari. The pieces reflect the idea that nothing is permanent and everything moves through its own cycle.

The SS27 silhouettes embody this emotional transition through a deliberate tension between form and freedom, a theme expressed with striking sensitivity across the designs. My interpretation of the pictured checkered blazer look: irregular, distressed textures suggest familiar bonds beginning to unravel, while striped fabric looping around the neck and falling loosely across the chest evokes enduring connections. Wide, flowing trousers soften the formality of the tailoring, creating a sense of ease within the structure. Elsewhere, asymmetric layers, gathered fabric, and uneven hemlines give the garments the feeling of being rearranged, familiar forms shifting, loosening, and finding a new balance.

Trashy Planets

On the runway, Trashy Planets’ Ashes to Ashes collection was a spectacle to behold. My favorite look, the striking crimson ensemble pictured, captures the collection’s theatrical spirit with commanding clarity: a towering feathered headdress frames the face like an otherworldly crown, while sculpted hips and a sweeping train give the silhouette a regal, almost ceremonial presence. Gold and flame‑orange accents flicker through the plumage, hinting at rebirth. The look’s power lies in the interplay between the sharply defined bodice and the extravagant feathers surrounding it, balancing precision with drama. Here, themes of regality, mythology, and renewal come vividly to life, embodying Trashy Planets’ fascination with transforming the discarded into something magnificent.

Platform: @flair.fashionofficial | Photography: @rosslynphotography | Stylist: @laurenncroftt| Key MUA: @charliaverymakeup | Key Hair Stylist: @doris_designs_ | PR: @dyelogpr

Samantha Siu

Samantha Siu’s jewellery appeared on Paul Costelloe’s SS27 runway, where her signature chain bracelets, sculptural earrings, and the Eternity Bracelet Set complemented his refined tailoring. The pairing highlighted a compelling contrast: Paul’s work is defined by premium fabrications, sharp cuts, and classic structure, while Samantha’s craftsmanship brings intricate detailing, symbolic design, and a hand‑finished richness. Together, they showed how her pieces can elevate high‑fashion looks, adding a precise finishing touch that enhances the sophistication of Costelloe’s silhouettes.

Apujan

This year, Apujan presented a digital runway show that highlighted the label’s signature fusion of futuristic design and traditional craftsmanship. The collection showcased intricate textures, sculptural silhouettes, and imaginative detailing that continue to define Apujan’s distinctive aesthetic.

Flappper 6

A contemporary luxury womenswear house, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection BECOMING draws inspiration from the 1920s flapper movement. Refined, minimalist silhouettes are elevated through meticulous craftsmanship—threadwork, geometric compositions, hand‑painted elements, and a tactile mix of wool, leather, and digital print. I was particularly fascinated by look 3, pictured below right. Its appeal lies in the precision of its craftsmanship: the hand‑rendered nature motifs and the feathered collar introduce movement and texture that echo the flapper era’s expressive ornamentation. The elongated, fluid silhouette completes the look, offering a modern, pared‑back interpretation of flapper‑inspired handwork

Fam Ivroll

I was really looking forward to seeing their SS27 collection. I love the brand’s playful, colourful designs, and I admire how Fam Ivroll translates their point of view so clearly through their work, always a touch of nostalgia, always a hint of pop culture.

Koffi Maako

Yukito Lim

INF DARK 

Oxford Fashion Studio 

OFS LDN’s SS27 shows brought together 18 independent designers from 10 countries at Devonshire Square during London Fashion Week. I attended the New Codes show, where six designers explored familiar fashion ideas through fresh silhouettes, personal references and modern design language. It was a concise but compelling look at how emerging voices are reworking established codes for a new season.

ALEEKA DESIGNS

London‑based designer Liqaa Al‑Kamil’s label presents an evolving, self‑defined design language to audiences beyond the UK. Her collection centred on form, with off‑shoulder volumes, quilted panels, sculpted bodices and exaggerated shoulders shaping the silhouette. Each garment feels engineered, holding its own presence on the runway through precise construction and controlled architectural detail.

ALIMAC

Alimac builds a vivid world of colour, structure and narrative around individuality and self‑expression, working with non‑gendered silhouettes and fantastical references to shape her visual language. In this collection, black dominates but never reads flat; lace, mesh, glossed surfaces and embroidered motifs introduce depth and texture. The overall mood is dramatic yet controlled, leaning into a gothic sensibility without tipping into costume, resulting in pieces that feel expressive, atmospheric and finely composed.

ICK.

Founded in 2024, ick. develops small capsule collections that reinterpret familiar silhouettes through considered materials, proportion play, layered construction and unexpected styling choices. There’s a deliberate roughness in the finishes frayed hems, distressed panels, exposed slits, that gives each piece a sense of movement and imperfection. It’s not chaos; it’s controlled deconstruction that adds emotional texture.

Jellavu

Jellavu’s latest collection, Eclipse in Denim, reimagines denim through deliberate contrasts, strength and softness, rawness and refinement, creating an echange between material and mood. The aesthetic feels modern and introspective, shaped by tactile surfaces and controlled deconstruction. Denim brings a casual foundation, but proportion, texture and thoughtful styling elevate each look into something more expressive and contemporary.

Svarc

Dominik Švarc approaches clothing as a space for experimental visual storytelling, expressing the exploratory energy of a new generation of Czech design talent. The garments are built through folding, pleating, layering and controlled volume. Fabrics are shaped into petal‑like forms, radiating pleats, and airy tiers that create movement without losing structure. Each piece feels almost hand‑carved from cloth.

FEGHALI

The designer’s style is modern streetwear with a cool, confident edge. Graphics give each look a clear identity, while the colours stay minimal, mostly blacks and deep tones, so the focus stays on shape and detail. Proportions do the heavy lifting: cropped tops with high‑waisted bottoms, oversized layers over fitted pieces, and sturdy boots that anchor the outfits. Overall, the designs feel youthful, urban and self‑assured, simple pieces elevated through sharp styling, bold graphics and clean silhouettes.

RAY CHU

Ginny Litscher

Ginny Litscher’s On‑Schedule SS27 catwalk show and afterparty took place on Friday, 18 September at 8PM, set against the striking poolside runway at The Haymarket Hotel. The venue proved to be an ideal backdrop for the collection’s relaxed, resort‑inflected mood, its reflective water and soft lighting echoing the ease and fluidity of the pieces. The SS27 lineup showcased silk shirts, relaxed trousers, pyjama sets, kimonos, kaftans, lace dresses and evening gowns, all rendered in vivid prints and airy fabrics that moved beautifully along the pool’s edge. The looks captured a balance of comfort and elegance, with bold colour, intricate patterning and a laid‑back sophistication that felt perfectly aligned with the designer’s London‑based sensibility.

 

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